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By whooven - 6/22/2006 10:40:11 PM
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I had a similar problem on my 88 YJ 4.2. Rebuilt that stupid Carter carb 3 times and eventually had to replace the engine computer. That's right, it was carbed and had a computer. The computer helps control the carb.
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By whooven - 6/28/2006 10:02:04 PM
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Awesome kg6dfh, it's cool when people supply part numbers 
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By Lamar - 6/22/2006 10:29:15 PM
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Dear Riviera;
What sort of fuel delivery system do you have? Is it the factory Carter carb or an aftermarket setup?
Your friend;
LAMAR
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By Lamar - 6/23/2006 7:31:47 AM
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Dear Riviera;
OK, I am still going to need more info. Your carb could very well be a Carter BBD that was in fact built by Weber USA. It sounds to me like the acceleration/mid-range circuit inside of the carb is dirty based on your symptons. If you could post a pic of the carb in question, it would greatly assist me in determining what the proper course of action would be.
Your friend;
LAMAR
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By aleksandrc - 6/23/2006 6:48:27 AM
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on my 89YJ I had the same symptoms when my power steering fluid disappeared (slow leak). so in my case, if you don't add step on the gas a bit, it don't wouldn't idle not enoigh power to turn that power steering pump w/o fluid. Same happened while i was switching gears or stepping on the brakes.
So verify all systems that your motor is turning and make sure all is turning without resistance.
But having said all above, odd are that your problem is in the carb or vacuum leak.
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By jeepnsam - 7/31/2006 5:13:23 AM
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Had the same problem a few years back.
If you still run the Carter BBD, pop
off the pickup tube part and clean em out.
Mine had a slither of dirt blocking
one of the tubes, but that's all it takes.
NOTE: My pickup tubes are drilled out to .030
and a large piece of dirty can still cause the
same problem.
Sam
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By kg6dfh - 6/28/2006 1:49:26 AM
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How is your dist. cap? I recently went TFI using a larger cap and hotter coil. It is cheap (less than $100). My understanding is the 4.2 studders at higher RPM's because of the smaller size of the dist. cap (which results in sparks jumping to different terminals, cuz the rotor is spinnin too fast).
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By kg6dfh - 6/28/2006 3:19:38 PM
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Here are the Wells part numbers for the upgrade:
F952-Distributor Cap
F953-Rotor
Base Adaptor-F960
Coil-Borg Warner E92
Yes, any auto parts store will have the adaptor that I am referring to. The I6 TFI cap is in reality a two piece cap. First, there is a plastic cap adaptor which mounts to the distributor base with 2 screws and then the actual cap mounts to the top of the adaptor. You will need these components from a 1986 or later Ford 300 I6:
Distributor cap
Distributor cap adaptor
Rotor
Coil
8MM or heavier sparkplug wires
Spark plugs
Distributor Cap: Napa # FA136
Distributor Rotor: Napa # FA159SB
Distributor Base Adapter: Napa # FA139
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By johnnygt - 9/1/2006 8:40:53 PM
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Hope that fixed it.
I went through a ton of work and money before I finally said the heck with it and put on the Howell TBI kit. If your constantly chasing carb problems it is the best thing ever. I have an auto trans and I can acually drive with one foot instead of riding the brake to keep it running.
Yours wasn't the standard idle problem but for anyone else I would spend the money on the kit before spending a few hundred at a time hunting for a fix.
John
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By 1989_jeep_YJ - 7/27/2007 12:41:28 PM
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Hey guys I'm having the same prob with my 89 YJ just changed the plugs and wires and it still stalls out on me at every stop hot or cold. Took the cab apart cleaned the jets and still spits and shudders its driving me nutz I love the dang thing but man what a pain in the @**. Now should I change the carb or the coil first? and what is the (TBI kit)? I would apprishiate any help. Thanks for your time. Vic
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By roadrnr28 - 2/7/2008 12:15:12 PM
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I was having the same problem with my 88 4.2L yj. would be driving along and the engine would just shut off. I recently upgraded to a Weber 34 carb, Nutter bypass, and MSD 5 spark box. Hasn't stalled while driving but still misses sometimes and sometimes it won't start. I went down the line grounding trigger lines checking for spark
- White wire on MSD
- Orange wire to Duraspark box
- orange wire to ground wire from Dis
all sparked. Then I took the Dis cap off and cranked the engine and it sparked fine. Putting the cap back on I tapped the pickup and the coil sparked, tapping it again produced another spark.
I put the cap back on and it started, ran for 5 min and died again.
I'm going to say its the pickup.
Anyone have a better option that just replacing the pickup with a factory one?
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By Riviera - 6/22/2006 1:45:40 PM
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Got a question for 4.2 engine lovers. I have been having problems lately with my jeep stalling while going up through the gears from a stop. It just starts to cut out like someone is turning off ignition and sputters. I can get it to re-fire after pulling over and cranking and pumping the gas pedal several times. I never had any problems like this before just the last couple times out wheeling. It has all new spark plugs and wires and new distributor. I am thinking it might be fuel pump or maybe the accelerator pump in carb. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ken
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By Riviera - 6/23/2006 4:42:46 AM
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Hey guys thanks for the help. I did look at the carb and it's a Weber with a lot of vaccum lines LOL. I am going to go ahead and change the fuel filter (which is fairly new) and also the fuel pump and new spark plugs which are same age as fuel filter. I will keep veryone posted as to what fixes it.
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By Riviera - 6/26/2006 3:57:50 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Lamar
Dear Riviera;
OK, I am still going to need more info. Your carb could very well be a Carter BBD that was in fact built by Weber USA. It sounds to me like the acceleration/mid-range circuit inside of the carb is dirty based on your symptons. If you could post a pic of the carb in question, it would greatly assist me in determining what the proper course of action would be.
Your friend;
LAMAR
Ok here's the update; I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter(opened old one and was still brand new condition inside), changed the spark plugs(they looked good but changed anyways, they seemed like it maybe a little lean condition), checked all fuel lines and all vacuum lines. Test drove it and seemed to work fine. Towed it behind motor home to a friend’s house and drove it home (approx. 15 miles on freeway). Everything seemed to be working good until almost home I notice right when I change gears as RPM are climbing right before next gear change it seem like it would flutter a little. So after next stoplight I took the RPM's up even higher then normal and before shifting I got it to do it. It seems like it's losing spark for just a quick second.
I had a Chevy 454 do almost the same thing and chased the problem for awhile until some one told me to change the spark plug wires that they were probably grounding out, so I did and it cured the problem, but mine are only like 8 months old with hardly any driving on them.
LAMAR I will try and post up a picture, I might have to email it to you I am not sure how to re-size it and post on here, I know call me stupid~~! LOL
Thanks for the posts!
Ken
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By Riviera - 6/27/2006 6:13:08 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Leo
Coil.
Thanks I was thinking of changing that next!
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By Riviera - 6/28/2006 7:46:32 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by kg6dfh
How is your dist. cap? I recently went TFI using a larger cap and hotter coil. It is cheap (less than $100). My understanding is the 4.2 studders at higher RPM's because of the smaller size of the dist. cap (which results in sparks jumping to different terminals, cuz the rotor is spinnin too fast).
Thanks for the information. Let me know more of the details of our parts, type name, model number etc...?
Thanks again, I hope to get to the end of this problem soon!
Ken
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By Riviera - 6/28/2006 11:59:46 AM
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Ok got a little more into the vacuum lines and I found a small 1/8" line that had been burned through on the back side next to the exhaust manifold from heat. Also found a 3/8-1/2 vacuum line that comes off near the top/side carb. and runs down to a round canister next to the fender wheel well under the coolant recovery tank; it also had a big hole on the backside from heat exposure. I will stop by NAPA tomorrow and get new ones along with the coil hopefully this helps~!
Thanks,
Ken
PS I also have a post over in the for sale section I am looking for a stock YJ center console for 1989 I mainly need the lid and hinge, if anyone has one or knows anyone who does let me know, I already called Scotty's they don’t have any right now.
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By Riviera - 7/21/2006 11:42:31 AM
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Ok here is an update I think I got the stalling problem taken care of by changing the fuel pump and the coil and some vacuum lines.
But now the sputter at high RPM's is still there after I get engine warmed up and hot and I try and accelerate hard and bring the RPM up to around 3000 in 4th gear it starts to crap out and sputter almost like someone is turning off the fuel or the coil/ignition. If I keep the gas pedal floored it just spits and sputters until I lift off the gas a little and then get back into the gas.
It also seems like maybe it might be timing / lean condition?
It seems to run good on hills crawling around and accelerating in low rpm it just when I floor it and hold it wide open is when it does it.
Can it possibly be a Oxygen Sensor?
Thanks
Ken
89 YJ with 4.2 motor and Dana Axles with 4:88 gears and 35 tires
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By Riviera - 7/22/2006 5:21:46 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by BamaJeeper
quote:
Originally posted by Dan Morera
Ignition Module would do that too
Same thing I was thinking. If you can borrow a friends for a few minutes you can run it and see if that is the problem.
I called Napa and they don't show an igition Module or an Oxygen Senor. Will I have to check with a dealer for these?
Ken
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By Riviera - 8/6/2006 1:08:50 AM
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Thanks Leo for the link, but mine idles just fine.
So I think I have found the problem. We just got back from a week trip in the Eastern Sierras. I had just got the Jeep back before we left from my local mechanic. He found that it was a lean condition. I had told him it did have an after market 28 gal. fuel tank. So after checking several things with no luck he decided to drop the tank. He said everything looked fine inside but he noticed there was just a rubber hose laying at the bottom of the tank and thinking this was not the problem he left it alone and continued and re-installed the tank. Test-drove it and it worked fine. So now I thought it was fixed and we left next day. As soon as we got in town before we headed up the mountain I top off the tank and unhooked the hitch and wife followed me up the mountain. We got in camp and it seems to be running just fine. After it was parked for a few min. went to move it and it would not start. So I pulled the line off the fuel pump and cranked the engine and there was no fuel. So I dropped the tank (what a pain in the ass) had to drain 28 gals into a plastic storage bin. After getting the tank down and pulled the pick up lines out of the tank I noticed the rubber hose was pretty long and thought maybe it was moving to the sides and getting stuck under suction not allowing fuel pump to suck in fuel, so I cut the rubber line so it was only about an inch off the bottom of the tank. Continued putting the tank back together. (Also blew out the lines just to make they weren't the problem. This seemed to fix it. So next day we head out on the trail and we are on very steep and very long climb up a fire road around 7500 ft. and right about half way up it cuts out and stalls. Now I am pissed off! We had to get 2 Jeeps in front of me to pull it to the top to get me level. I think to myself I should have put some sort of a filter or pick up screen in the tank incase there was something clogging the line. I take off the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump and crank the motor and no fuel, so I take a air compressor and blow air back down the line into the tank and we hear air bubbles. Hook everything back up and it fires and runs fine. This happened one more time on that trail but other then that it worked fine the rest of the week. So as you might have guessed I am going to drop the tank again and take it back Aero Tanks in Corona, CA. who originally built the tank and have them completely flush it out and I will then install a proper pick up fuel screen and filter in the tank so this can never happen again. Sorry this was so long but I am just glad I found the problem! Hope this helps someone else in the future.
Thanks for all your help and advice!~
Ken
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By YJ Bill - 5/26/2007 11:26:53 AM
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one year later
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By BamaJeeper - 7/21/2006 2:46:45 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Dan Morera
Ignition Module would do that too
Same thing I was thinking. If you can borrow a friends for a few minutes you can run it and see if that is the problem.
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By Leo - 6/27/2006 3:31:53 AM
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Coil.
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By Leo - 8/1/2006 5:54:35 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by jeepnsam
Had the same problem a few years back.
If you still run the Carter BBD, pop
off the pickup tube part and clean em out.
Mine had a slither of dirt blocking
one of the tubes, but that's all it takes.
NOTE: My pickup tubes are drilled out to .030
and a large piece of dirty can still cause the
same problem.
Sam
You talking about the Venturi tubes, Sam? I did that too, and it made a world of difference on my old Jeep.
Try this article, Riviera. I did this and it worked as good as a Carter BBD can work:
http://www.jeeptech.com/engine/carter.html
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By coyle - 5/26/2007 1:46:17 AM
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if your jeep stalls while driving and you are currently using SHELL gasoline i would suggest trying a different type of gas. i have had problem with stalling while driving and after fruitlessly trying to solve the problem by engine diagnostics i had someone tell me that her car had similiar problems and was cured by not using Shell gasoline any more. ?? who knows, but it worked.
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By coyle - 5/26/2007 1:46:54 AM
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if your jeep stalls while driving and you are currently using SHELL gasoline i would suggest trying a different type of gas. i have had problem with stalling while driving and after fruitlessly trying to solve the problem by engine diagnostics i had someone tell me that her car had similiar problems and was cured by not using Shell gasoline any more. ?? who knows, but it worked.
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By Dan Morera - 6/28/2006 9:29:40 AM
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Ignition Module would do that too
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By 78CJ7 - 6/23/2006 4:16:22 AM
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Similar problem recently with mine, but it only happened under acceleration at 2000 rpm and up. Plugged filter in my case. Wasn't getting enough gas at the higher flows. Cheap thing to eliminate from the equasion before you get too deep.
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By 78CJ7 - 7/29/2007 9:02:13 PM
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Welcome, and check your PM.
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