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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 4/28/2008 1:18:02 AM
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I was wondering if anyone is using this to run longer shocks in the rear of their jeep? Or something similar to this. Need to figure something out on mine that is easy and cheap to do.
http://www.teraflx.com/productImages/SBR.jpg
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 7/13/2010 1:05:59 AM
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Don't know how well the design works, but you could make your own a helluvalot cheaper than the 85 clams they want for it.
Andy
http://www.votechusa.com/
http://www.jeepaholics.com/rides/view.asp?id=554
http://www.jeepaholics.com/rides/view.asp?id=2839
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 4/28/2008 1:18:02 AM
Posts: 67,
Visits: 675
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Yeah that was what I was thinking, I was just wanting to see what some other people have come up with. Haven't really thought to much about it yet.
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 2 days ago @ 12:16:26 AM
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You can't move the shocks outboard on a YJ in the rear without going full width AFAIK....it's either skimp on the shock length, go through the tub, or run one of these cross bars and run angled shocks. The angled shocks work fine from what i've heard.
Danny
http://www.jeepaholics.com/rides/view.asp?id=1823
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/19/2006 4:10:51 PM
Posts: 161,
Visits: 995
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hey!
(Excuse the dirty pics! need to wash it!)
Instead of spending your hard earned cash, on something that is going to take the same amount of time to bolt in, why not build one? This came to me, once i had broken off my stock mounts on the axle end 4 times, and welded them back together on the trail differant times.
This is the best way to go about it, in my mind! and is very possible, if you have an welder,grinder, and simple skills.
1>Go down to your local metal supply, and pick up a piece on 3/4" sked 40 pipe. this has the measure the distance between the two shock mounts in the back.
2> pick up an piece of 1/4" plate while your there. you might have some laying around. cut it at around 6" long. Repeat twice. now, drill two 5/8th holes(depending if you use the sleves in the rubber or not.), with 3" spacing between the two. this space, will depend on the length of shock you want to use. i used the good old standard 5012's in the back.
The shape that you end up with should look something like this
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3> weld these two pieces of 1/4" to the 3/4" pipe that you picked up, and have allready cut to length. it should look something like this.
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4> get out that trusty grinder that we talked about before, and buck off the factory bolts, sticking out of the mounts! or, cheat like i did, and only buck off one, because that way, one end will hold it, when you go to weld it into position.
5>, and since we are on the subject of cutting, cut off the old stock mounts on the axle end, because after doing all this, why not use the added clearance!
6> make some new mounts on the axle end. very simple to do, i just used the stock shocks bolts from any rancho shock.(the one's that are not threaded till the exact point, at where the bushing ends!)(i'll find a picture.)
I took that bolt, and took an piece on 3x3"(1" wide.) angle, and cut it down to 1,1/2" in each end. then welded the bolt to it.
Like so.
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Weld these on when you get the right angle!
While your welding, weld the bar that you made, to the factory shock mounts at the top.
Now because of the awkard place that you are welding, i couldn't weld the tops. so i made a traingle shaped bracket, to re-enforce it!
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now, your done. bolt in your shocks and change the exhaust.! i just welded a turn down to the muffler, and called it good. go enjoy yourself!
If you have any questions, e-mail me at cammclellan@gmail.com
here's a question for you! what do you think the purpose of this is on my rig? cheers!
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1976 cj-5 SOA front, 4 link.airshocks/120feet of tube for a body from the cowl back.tubefenders,rci bucket seats and 5 points,welded f/r, 103" wheelbase, hydro assist,8274warn front, 6000 warn rear,FF60 rear,60 front.Amc 360/ford t-18/chev203/NWF adapter/chevy 205.
91 yj. SOA/33 swampers/fullrollcage/locked rear./8274 on front
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 8/15/2010 11:45:52 PM
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Thanks for the pics.
Yeah but...that assumes you know how to weld or know someone who can. If you can/do, that's great! But for the rest of us it's far easier to spend the $85. Reminds me of the hand throttle do it yourself. I read all the comments about doing it yourself and saving money over the $30 Rubicon Express kit. HA! I did it myself alright and after 10 trips to the bike shop to get the right parts and lots of head scratching I finally have a functional hand throttle and a box of spare parts I'll never need. I guess Im just not mechanically inclined. 
And I bet that last pic is for mounting a spare drive shaft.
Bill Hooven
Jeeps Only
http://www.jeepsonly.com
http://www.tnvjc.org (Tennessee Virtual Jeep Club)
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 5/12/2009 4:31:46 AM
Posts: 982,
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yea eaither to mount a spare or....from where its mounted, possible anti wrap device for the rear?
Chris
84 CJ7
SOA w/ stock springs
3/8 in shackle lift in rear, 1 3/8 in the front
Better to be lucky than good...Image Insert:
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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/19/2006 4:10:51 PM
Posts: 161,
Visits: 995
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na, it's just the good old antiwrap bar. used the u-joint to allow for flex, and an driveshaft slip, to allow for shackle movement.
And yes, i guess i was assuming that people can weld, or have someone with an welder that owes them a favor!
Hell, i'm only 18, but started building at 14, so have a bit of advantage over the average people my age i guess..
cheers!
Cam
1976 cj-5 SOA front, 4 link.airshocks/120feet of tube for a body from the cowl back.tubefenders,rci bucket seats and 5 points,welded f/r, 103" wheelbase, hydro assist,8274warn front, 6000 warn rear,FF60 rear,60 front.Amc 360/ford t-18/chev203/NWF adapter/chevy 205.
91 yj. SOA/33 swampers/fullrollcage/locked rear./8274 on front
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