Page updated: 01/12/2004 10:39 AM

Similar Article:  On-Board-Air Using a Sanden Compressor

Ok, some of you have seen this before, or already have done this project.  But I thought I would document my experience in hopes it would help someone else at the least get them to think about doing it.  I bought this TJ used a little bit ago and it was set up pretty good with a 4" lift, exhaust, bumpers, wheels and tires.  Well, it didn't take long to figure out that after a while I was going to have to spend some money to get it where I wanted.  I knew that I was going to put some ARB's in but did not have that kind of cash (I have a 30/35's with 3.07 gears, I know it sucks) so I figured out very quickly that a OBA would be money well spent and I would find many other uses for it.  So off I went to do some research for some good ideas.  What I found was that most of these systems are built around two A/C units York's and Sanden's.  Most of which are York's.  The system is based around using an A/C unit as the compressor which is mounted to the engine by a custom bracket it runs off the engine via the serp.  Belt it has a pressure switch, gauge, tank and whatever else you want it to do.  Then it pumps air to a tank for more volume to be used for airing up tires after a run, running lockers, impact guns, beds for camping, blowing off dust inside your jeep and helping out friends.  I talked to some people read a couple of articles on OBA's, and decided on the York.  One of the most helpful sites was OnBoardAir.com they make the bracket you will need.  I spoke with Scott and he was totally great with ideas and insight on what I was doing.  This is the first place to go, I will explain why later.  The thing to think about is what do you want the system to do and how do you want it look, take the time up front, as it will save a lot of time in the long run.  I took Kilby's schematic (from OnBoardAir.com) and tweaked it a bit:

Completed project:

So off I went to look for my York.  I picked up two of them at my local pick your part (Ecology in the LB harbor) they had a 50% off day and I picked up two of them for 30 bucks.  I got one out of a Volvo and one out of Mercedes, I think both were early 80's.  I got one of each types (one flange and one rotolock) at 30 bucks I figured why not get a back up.  I can tell you this the Volvo is much easier to get out, and there are plenty of them around.  The best reason for the York is they are cheep and they have a oil source.  No need for an oiler!  The parts only yards wanted $80 and up.  Plus its always more fun to go to a junk yard, right?  It's easy to find the compressor the hoods are all open and all you have to do is go to the import section and look for the Volvo's.  Within a few rows I found 5 or 6 of them.  When you go, take the tools you will need: a socket set, wrenches screwdrivers and a hack saw blade or cutters for the belts and hoses.  Don't take any of the hose they will try and charge you for it, don't bother you won't need it anyway.  Take a dolly to so you won't have to carry them.  I went around and wiped off the grunge and found the best looking and newest ones (83's) they were all 210's ( that is the largest one).  They are clearly stamped on the front with model and year (see OnBoardAir's link to York id info).  I didn't even find anything else but 210's in the Volvo's.  First you want to check to see if it works.  Start by cutting the A/C hose first, be careful the system might still have pressure in it.  If you get a sudden burst or discharge that is a good sign.  Next cut the belts, once you have done this you can see if the compressor works.  Grab the pulley and clutch and turn it, you should feel some air coming out of one of the hoses, it will say on the compressor which in the intake and which is the discharge.  If this is what you get, most likely your good to go.  Don't worry about checking to see if the clutch works you will not be able to use it since you will need a serpentine belt not a double V.  Trust me on this one, you will NOT BE ABLE TO FIND A USED CLUTCH SERPENTINE PULLY!!!    I tried, the pulley that is used is a pulley for a Ford Mustang but all that I found had a double V.  Just call OnBoardAir.com.  They are are also used on most big rig trucks for bags and brakes (this is where I got my twist on the system).

Here is a picture of my York after I used a can of brake cleaner on it.  Open it up on one of the sides and check to see if it needs oil.  Mine had oil but, I emptied it out and put some fresh 10/30w in.  Take a piece of wire or coat hanger and bend it to check the level (see the York info on OnBoardAir.com's site).

This is after I painted it with the pulley on and the bracket.  You don't have to paint it but I thought looked better.

Next you will need the bracket to mount your York.  If you are like Al you just sponge off one of your friends and have them make you one.  (hehehe!!!)  But most of us will just call OnBoardAir.com.  The bracket that OnBoardAir.com has is great at $150.00.  It's heavy duty thick stuff, clean as well as zinc plated.  It comes with a longer serpentine belt, good instructions, and all the hardware you need.  It's probably a good idea to order the clutch pulley at the same time for about $110.00.

First follow the instructions from OnBoardAir.com to mount your York.  Remove the alternator and idler pulley, and pull some wire from the loom for the alternator to be relocated.

Here is the bracket mounted on the block:

Next mount the York to the bracket and mount the alternator underneath.  Install the serpentine belt and use the hardware to adjust the York to tighten the belt.  Tighten it all down and check the belt.  Now you can check the clutch.  Start the engine and touch the wire to the battery.  "Click" the clutch engages and your York should start sucking air.  My intake filter was rubbing the hood so I turned it around at the end, yours might not rub but it doesn't matter which way it goes.  After that your done, on to the fun part, mounting the tank.

I got my tank from OnBoardAir.com for 40 bucks as they had a few on special.  I used a 2-1/2 gallon tank and put it under the tub on the drivers side by the frame rails.  Here's a tip: Put the tank up in a place you like and mark one of the hole placements and drill out the hole, put a bolt thru (you might/will need some washers) and tighten down the bolt.  This will hold the tank in place for you to drill out the rest of the holes.  Remember to put all the fittings on the tank first before you mount it!

Now the fun starts!  Time to plumb the system, here is where all the planning comes in.  You will need to think how you want your system to work and what you want it to look like.  Draw it out on paper piece by piece (use OnBoardAir.com's schematic for reference) and make a list of all the fittings you will need.  I did my own schematic and list.  For the tubing and fittings I used FittingsAndAdapters.com and their sister site AirHoseReels.com, as they had the type of tubing I wanted to run my system.  I made a call to Don at Fitting and Adaptors he gave me the tip on the tubing, instead of the standard push on air hose.  All their fittings came with lock tight on the threads.  But get a roll of Teflon tape and use plenty of it since it's cheep.

I wanted a smaller and easier way to plum it.  I used 3/8"OD brake line tubing the same kind the use on trucks (they use 5/8").  All the fittings are push on, WAY easier than Goodyear push on hose and fittings.  The best part here is that if you mess up you can just pull it out and start over, this is a major plus.  It's smaller and the bends are great.  The best part about this tubing is that is rated at 1400 PSI burst pressure and a temperature range of -40 to +200, and its DOT rated.  Best of all its cheaper.  :)  Once you have made you list and checked it twenty five times place your order.  Mine took three days and all the fittings came with lock-tight and all was great!

First the compressor:  install the new flanges (or roto's) couplers, filter on the intake and a check valve on the discharge.

I ran my hose along the fire wall and over to the driver side corner, here I put a tee for my switch and gauge.  This area works great for this, and I still have room for my solenoids for the ARB's when I get the cash.  :(  You can use a standard PVC cutter to cut the tubing ($3.99 at Harbor Freight).  My switch is set to come on at 85 PSI and go off at 125 PSI.  Plenty of air to run lockers (when I get the cash) and a impact gun.

Next you will have to wire your switch.  Most guys wired it to there fuse box but since I decided to put my switch on the other side, I ran some wire I had from an old loom from the compressor (use some crimp connectors) to the switch in the same route as the tubing.  Once to the switch I pulled the wire thru the fire wall (there are two openings, I used the smaller one) and to a toggle switch and in to the cigarette lighter. The cigarette lighter only works when the ignition is turned on, this way you won't keep power to clutch.  Between the switch and the cigarette lighter I put a lighted toggle switch, this way I can control when the compressor works.  Driving around town it just stays off and the system never comes on.  A simple flip of the switch and you're up and running.

From there the tubing goes down and tee's again one to the tank and one to the front end.

Here is where I mounted the front coupler.  There is this perfect hole in the body mount, I took the hose from the tee and ran it along the frame rails.  Be sure not to let the tubing get in the way of the steering shaft or steering box, zip tie it along the way when you get to the box make a turn along the front to the hole in the frame mount, put on a 90 with a 3/8" male end (for your quick connect).

Next from the tee run the hose back to the tank, as you see the tubing will run along rails (you can push into the brake line clips there is a open space).  Push that piece into the tank.  This is why the tubing works better, you can cut to fit exact by checking it each time you make a fitting.  Push it in, check it, pull it out, trim it fit - easy!

On the tank you will need the standard stuff:  Drain Cock, Pressure valve (set at 150 PSI) and a plug.  On the end of the tank I used a 90 street fitting to put the tubing up towards the belly out of the way.  I ran it up along the frame rails to where the bumper has a opening in the end.

I then ran it to the center of the bumper frame and drilled a hole for another 90 street fitting to come out for my rear for my quick connect.  This was perfect place to mount a connection, and it looks cool too.

Start her up and flip the switch.  "Click" goes the clutch and in about a minute later "click", off goes the compressor.  You're at a buck twenty five PSI in no time.  I deflated one of my tires, a 33" BFG MT, and pumped it back up to 32 lbs in 20 seconds!  My impact works great!  All my non-Jeep owner friends think it's funny but what do they know, they just laugh and say "That's crazy Dude."

I ordered a very cool tire gauge from Don at FittingsAndAdaptors.com on the AirHoseReels.com site (Part #A1000-45).  This gauge inflates and deflates with a small quick connect on the end of the hose 4' long, clip it on and stand up and look into the indicator to fill and deflate at the same time, this is a great gauge!

Ok, everybody wanted a break down of the parts list and prices.  Keep in mind that I did not go out to build the cheapest system I could, but rather one that I thought worked best for me and was the easiest to put together.  It cost a bit more, but its going to be on there forever so might as well do it once!

1 - York 210R Ecology Auto Parts $ 15.00

On Board Air - Kilby Enterprises
1 - Kilby KE-2000 Bracket Kit $150.00
1 - 2.5 Gal. tank Kilby KE-AT2.5 $40.00
2 - Flange Fittings Kilby 28723 $25.00
1 - Serpentine Clutch Pulley Kilby 25-513352 $110.00

Fittings and Adapters
2 - Push On Union Tee $9.96
4 - Push On 3/8" Male Connector $9.60
2 - Push On 3/8" 90 Male $7.56
1 - 1/4" Brass Plug $0.44
1 - 3/8" Brass Plug $0.70
1 - 3/8" 90 Street Elbow $1.25
1 - 3/8" Brass Female Cross $2.05
1 - 3/8" Brass Coupling F/F $1.58
1 - 3/8" Brass Adapter 3/8"F to 3/8" M $1.30
1 - 1/4" Brass Hex Nipple $0.42
1 - Re-Coil Air Hose 1/4" x 25' $7.70
2 - Ind. Quick Couplers 3/8" F $9.74
1 - Ind. Plugs 1/4" M $0.63
1 - 25' Length of 3/8" C6 Air Brake Tubing $20.00
1 - Inflator/Deflator Gauge w/4"hose A1000-44 $48.94

Grainger
1 - 3/8" Brass Check Valve #5X781 $11.99
1 - 1/2" Filter/Silencer #5Z665 $14.84
1 - 3/8" Drain Cock #6D911 $2.10
1 - Pressure Gauge 150 PSI #1X754 $3.18
1 - Safety Valve 200 PSI #5A711 $6.23

1 - Lighted Switch $5.84

Sub Total $510.21 Plus Tax approximately 23.00 - $535.00

It starts to add up quick, all those pieces don't seem like much but together they add up fast.  You could do this project many different ways and cheaper, but I like how it turned out - "clean".

Don't buy those other compressors, "MAKE YOUR OWN SYSTEM", it will work way better.  And you can say you built it

That's it!  This took me two full days to complete which translates into two weekends between those honey-do's.  The hardest part is the planning out the system.  Do all the work on paper so you won't have to do a bunch of trips to the store.  If you get stuck and aren't pressed for time time go online to OnBoardAir.com, FittingsAndAdapters.com, or AirHoseReels.com.  These guys will have everything you need to build you own custom OBA system.  It was a lot of fun and it works GREAT.

MISHMAN