Page updated: 07/21/2003 11:58 PM

Factory-Look TJ Switch Panel

Being new to the forum, I am kinda reluctant to "jump" right in and start telling everybody how to do things. After the response I received from the "Take Time" topic in General Discussions I feel like I've been a member for years. Thanks everybody.

Ok, so on to this switch panel. I own a '00 TJ without the factory center console, but I do have the switches next to the ashtray for the factory fogs which is cool but hard to wire. If your like me, you like light ... four is just right for me, but to each his/her own. I looked all over the interior of Pepe (he's my black TJ with my six year old daughter's artistic white stripe that I've almost got rubbed out ... thats another story) for the best location for light switches. I settled for mounting three switches just below the tranny shifter on the plastic console/boot. Still, that didn't look just right and with this Jeep I wanted things perfect.

I was looking through my local Army/Navy store and found a switch panel that came out of what, I think, belonged to an inflatable boat. The item was a black, slightly textured plastic and had a slightly slanted front with mounting tabs on the bottom. I'm sorry I have no pictures. I am working on purchasing a digital camera and learning how to use spell check. I bought the panel and got it in Pepe. I placed the panel on the center clutter tray above the vent and it fit perfectly. I originally set the panel up on the tray just to hold it there while I went home but it fit like a glove.

When I got home, I got the mail and found the exact switch panel in the Spring Edition of Quadratec catalog (PN#12500.200) for $34.95. This part is for a '97-03 TJ but I think it would work on anything with a dash wide enough to fit it. I quickly got to work with my trusty Dremel(r) tool and cut the holes for four illuminated marine rocker switches. After reconnecting the power source (I really don't have to mention to disconnect battery(ies), do I?) and running the wires through the firewall by the streering column, I then ran the wire bundle to the center of the firewall in a loom. The wires for my rear bumper back-up lights I ran under the carpet following the floor along the tub wall also in a loom that I secured with c-tabs and 1/4" self-tappers. Once all the wires were neatly together behind the dash and ready to be loomed together, I did so in a bigger loom and ran that up the back of the dash along the firewall to the back of the heating and a/c vents. I removed the convenience console and drilled a 3/4" hole in the bottom of the top console tray and ran the loom through the hole and into the switch panel where I hooked up the wires to the appropriate switch. I mounted the ground to the chassis ground and had four in-line fused hot wires.

Once the panel was mounted, it looks factory and fits the tray on top of the console like a glove. I was very impressed by the finished job and would recommend it to anyone considering a switch panel that is both convienient for driving, switching and looks. When completed there should be no visible wires and the panel should fit snugly both in the tray and flat. My panel has four mounting holes that are part of the panel, two of the holes are tab-type mounts and two are part of the panel at the corners. Here is a list of the supplies and tools you'll need and some optional stuff to make for a tiddy job.
Enjoy!

Note: I found out later by going to Pep Boys you can buy wire kits with 30 & 40 amp relayed wire sets with all the instructions.

So either go to Pep Boys and buy the individual wire sets or go to Radio Shack or similar store and itemize all the parts. Looking back I'd go to Pep Boys and buy the kits, but hey, what are Sunday afternoons made for if not wheelin!